The first news came to me from “Kokomo”, in Cala Mayor. Half a year later Matteo Trecca and Giulia Tulli have moved to San Magín street. With barely a dozen tables, Roman recipes, love for the product and care for the cooking times predominated in the offer of this restaurant. Among the antipasti (starters), Giulia’s artichokes are reminiscent of the Judaic Nonna Betta’s ‘carciofi alla Giuda’.

Crítica restaurante, Giromatto

But it is in the pasta where this restaurant reaches its zenith. Brought from Gragnano, it is served in the same cocotte: ‘Raviolone del Rione Prati’ (the right bank of the Tiber); the ‘spaghetti alla carbonara with pecorino’ (and, of course, without cream); the ‘rigatoni all’Amatriciana’ or in the old way of the grici. Perfectly al dente.

Now, I must recommend a dish that I love: The ‘fettuccine cacio e pepe’. Although Felice a Testaccio has popularized this recipe with tonnarelli and Da Francesco with spaghetti, the Giromatto has opted for fettuccine that is drenched in pecorino grattugiato and sprinkled with black pepper. It serves them creamy, light and very tasty.

The meat menu includes two other classics. The ‘Milanese-style cotoletta’ and the ‘Roman-style saltimbocca’, suckling veal fillets with ham that are presented without flouring.

The desserts devalue the menu. In addition to some recurring cakes, a tiramisu is offered in frozen cups. The wine list is short but well selected with some Barolo and Brunello. But it is in millesimés grappas where Matteo develops all his creative imagination.

Let yourself go.

Giromatto. San Magín 84, Palma

Kitchen: 7’5
Cellar: 5
Service: 5
Decoration: 6